Oui Crochet's Featured Patterns


Sunflower Sun HatSunflower HeadbandSimple Large or Small Water BottleOpen Shell and Picot Stitch


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Friday, February 27, 2015

Ballerina Bunny {Free Crochet Pattern}

Easter is coming in a couple of months. What little girl wouldn't want this cute little Ballerina Bunny in her Easter basket? 
Ballerina Bunny (or 'Long Ears' as my daughter named hers) is approximately 9 inches long, made out of 100% cotton, and is machine washable.

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This Ballerina Bunny is not hard to make.
I included a couple of notes in the pattern that indicate the best times to embroider the little bunny face, and to stuff the bunny.
Once I put the bunny together, I thought that the legs looked a bit on the short side. I also indicated, in the pattern, where you can add a round or two to make the legs a bit longer.

Ballerina Bunny
(measures approx. 9 inches)

Supplies:
Size H crochet hook
Yarn Needle
Stitch marker (or contrasting yarn)
fiber filling (I just used 100% cotton balls, and it worked great!)
Yarn of your choice - Worsted weight. I used cotton yarn.



Pattern:
Note: You will be working in a round, so it will be necessary to mark the first stitch of each round with a stitch marker.

Head and Body:
With color A, Ch 4, join with sl st to first ch to form a ring.
Round 1: Ch 1, sc 8 in ring. (8)
Round 2: sc 2 in each stitch around. (16)
Round 3: [sc, sc 2 in next stitch] around. (24)
Round 4: [2 sc, sc 2 in next stitch] around. (32)
Rounds 5-12: sc in each stitch around. (32)
Round 13: [2 sc, sc2tog] around. (24)
Round 14: [sc, sc2tog] around. (16)
Do not finish off. Embroider face now. (Trust me, it's much easier this way!)
Round 15: [sc2tog] around. (8)
Do not finish off. Stuff the head now. (Again... makes things so much easier!)
Round 16: [2 sc, sc 2 in next stitch] around. (16)
Round 17: [sc, sc 2 in next stitch] around. (24)
Round 18: sc in each stitch around. (24)
Round 19: sc in each stitch around. (24)
Switch to Color B
Rounds 20-26: sc in each stitch around. (24)
Round 27: sc flo (front loop only) in each stitch around. (24) (You'll want to mark both the front loop and the back loop of the first stitch separately on this row. you will go back to the back loop later.)
Round 28: Working through both loops of the previous row, sl st to the next sc, ch 3, 4 dc in the same stitch, ch 1, skip the next stitch, sc in the next stitch, ch 1, skip the next stitch, *work 5 dc in next st, ch 1, skip the next stitch, sc in the next stitch, ch 1, skip the next st* repeat from *to* around. Join with sl st to the top of first ch 3. Finish off.
Switch back to color A. Reattach it to the marked back loop of round 27.
Round 29: sc in the back loop of each st around. (Remember to mark your first stitch). (24)
Round 30: [sc, sc2tog] around. (16)
Do not finish off. Stuff the body, now.
Round 31: [sc2tog] around. (8)
Round 32:  [sc2tog] around. (4)
Finish off leaving a long tail. Weave the tail through and pull tight to close off and knot. Weave in all loose ends.

Arms (make 2)
(Don't forget to mark the first stitch of each round.)
With color A
Round 1: Ch 2, sc 6 in the first ch made. (6)
Round 2: [sc, sc 2 in next stitch] around. (9)
Round 3: sc around. (9)
Round 4: [sc, sc2tog] around. (6)
Do not finish off. Stuff the paw now.
Rounds 5-8: sc around. (6)
Switch to color B.
Round 9: sc around. (6)
Switch back to color A.
Round 10: sc around. (6)
sl st to next sc. Finish off.

Legs (make 2)
(Don't forget to mark the first stitch of each round.)
With color B
Round 1: Ch 2, sc 6 in the first ch made. (6)
Round 2: [sc, sc 2 in next stitch] around. (9)
Rounds 3-4: sc around. (9)
Switch to color A.
Round 5: [sc, sc2tog] around. (6)
Do not finish off. Stuff the foot now.
Rounds 6-11: sc around. (6) (Note: For a longer leg, add a couple more rows.)
sl st to next sc. Finish off.

Ears (make 2)
With color A
Row 1: Ch 5, sc in second ch from hook and in each across. Turn. (4)
Rows 2-12: Ch 1, sc in each across. Turn. (4)
Row 13: Ch 1, sc 2 tog, sc 2. Turn. (3)
Row 14: Ch 1, sc 2 tog, sc 1. Turn. (2)
Row 15: Ch 1, sc 2. Turn. (2)
Row 16: Ch 1, sc 2 tog. Turn. (1)
Row 17: Ch 1, sc. Finish off and weave in ends.

Flower
With color A.
Ch 2, sc 6 in second ch from hook. Join with sl st.
Switch to color B.
[ch 5, sl st in next sc] around. Finish off.

Assemble.
Sew on the arms, legs, ears and flower. Weave in all ends,





Happy Crocheting!

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Thursday, February 26, 2015

All Size Simple Slippers {Free Crochet Tutorial}

On Tuesday, I shared my pattern for Child's Simple Slippers. Today, I am going to show you how to customize that pattern to fit virtually any foot size. All it takes is a little measuring and a couple of very simple calculations. If you look back at Tuesday's post: Child's Simple Slippers, you will see an example of how I used my daughter's foot measurements to make her slippers.

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I will start with the pattern, so that you can get a basic overview of what we are doing here. Below the pattern, I explain how you calculate the size you need. It is really easy. I promise!
All Size Simple Slippers
Important: See size calculation below

Supplies:
Size H crochet hook
Worsted Weight Yarn
Ruler
Yarn needle


General instructions:
Make 2
Starting at toe:

Make your starting chain as long as your calculated toe length, +2 ch.
For the first row, you will begin with a hdc stitch in the 3rd ch from hook.
If you are making child - adult sized slippers, you will hdc in each ch up until the last 5. You will sc in those last 5 sts.
I you are making the slippers for a baby or small toddler, you will sc in the last 3 stitches.
The purpose of the sc is to make the toe more narrow, and easier to cinch closed later on.

For the next rows of the toe portion, you will be working your stitches in the back loop only.
So, Row 2: ch 1, sc in the bl of each of the sc sts, hdc in the bl of each of the hdc sts. Turn.
Row 3: ch 2, hdc in bl of each of the hdc sts, sc in the bl of each of the sc sts. Turn.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you reach your calculated toe width, ending with a hdc stitch. It is ok if your measurement is just a small fraction off, as long as you are very close, and you end with the hdc stitch.

Working the foot:
Now you will be starting the foot portion of the slipper.
Foundation Row: You will start by working along the hdc edge of the toe portion. Hdc evenly across. You should get 3 hdc sts for every 2 rows of hdc. So, to determine how many stitches you need to work evenly across, count the rows of the toe portion. Divide that number by 2. Now multiply by 3.
After you have that foundation row of the foot portion finished, turn,
Row 2: ch 2, and hdc in the bl of each st across.
Repeat row 2 until you reach the length of your calculated foot length. You will begin your measurement at that foundation row that meets the toe portion, and end with the last row made.
Finish off, leaving a long end for sewing.

To finish:
Thread your yarn needle with the tail end. Fold your slipper in half, matching up the stitches. Sew up the heel of the slipper. FO and weave in ends.

Thread another length of yarn (2 feet should be plenty), insert the needle through corner of the end of the toe. Leave a few inches of yarn, and being careful not to pull it all the way through, weave the yarn through the toe end. Holding the tail side of the yarn, and the needle side, pull tight to cinch the toe closed. Knot tightly, but do not finish off.
Now, line up the rows of the top of the foot, and sew the top of the foot portion. Finish off and weave in ends.

Trim:
Attach a complimenting yarn to the top of the heel of the slipper. sc evenly around the opening. FO and weave in ends.


Size Calculation
(Working in inches)
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  1. Trace the foot that you want the slipper to fit.
  2. Note where the ball of the foot is, and section off the foot as in the picture.
  3. Measure the toe length. This is the first measurement you will use, to determine how many chain stitches you will begin with.
  4. Now, calculate your toe width. Measure the width, double it (multiply by 2), and add 1 inch. This is your toe width. This will determine the length of the toe portion of the slipper. Do not add 1 inch for infant and small toddler slippers.
  5. Measure the foot length. Now, this isn't the entire length of the foot. Just measure from the heel to right below the ball of the foot, where the toe portion begins. This will determine how long you make the foot portion of the slipper.
  6. Don't forget to write these measurements down, and write down how many stitches and rows you needed to get your proper measurements. It will really come in handy when you are making the second slipper.





Happy Crocheting!

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Oui Crochet Slipper Party!

Come join Oui Crochet's Slipper Party!
What is a slipper party?
Well, I kind of just made it up!
It starts with these:

All Size Simple Slippers
#OuiCrochetSlipperParty

How to participate:
  • Check out my pattern for All Size Simple Slippers.
  • Get creative! Choose some awesome colors, cute accessories, or adorable appliques, and customize these slippers any way you want.
  • Share photos of your awesome slippers creation on my Facebook Page! Use the hashtag #OuiCrochetSlipperParty so that we can all check out what everyone has come up with.
  • Invite your friends to join in the fun! The more the merrier!
When is the party?
  • Right now! It will be going on for the next couple of weeks.
    If you are still working on them over the weekend, you can share them (and any other works in progress) on my 
    Facebook Page for WIP weekend.
I look forward to seeing you all there!



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Happy Crocheting!
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Wednesday, February 25, 2015

Toddler Tutu Dress {Free Crochet Pattern}

I made this tutu dress for my now 4 year old, when she was turning 2. The dress is forgiving in size, as it stretches a bit. She was able to wear it for well over a year.

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The dress is worked in rounds, beginning with the top of the body, working downward. Increases are made to the skirt to give it a full and ruffled effect.
I added a little bow to embellish the dress. You can add one too, or customize it to your liking. A flower would look very pretty, too.
A couple of other crocheters have shared their customizations with me when I had this posted on my old site. One did a really cute red, white, and blue stars and stripes theme for Independence Day, and another used blue and yellow yarn to turned it into a Snow White dress. I am very impressed with their creativity!
If you make this dress, either as is or your own spin on it, I'd love to see! Please share a photo on my Facebook page.

Toddler Tutu Dress

Supplies:
Size H hook
Lion Brand Pound of Love yarn. (I didn't use the whole skein.)
Yarn Needle


Pattern:
Starting with the body of the dress:
Ch 78, join to first ch to form a loop. Be careful not to twist it.
*Note: The first stitch of each row will be in the same stitch as the join.
Round 1: Ch 2, hdc in each around. Join to first hdc with a slip stitch. (78)
Round 2-3: Ch 2, hdc in each around. Join to first hdc with a slip stitch. (78)
Round 4: Ch 2 hdc in back loop only in each stitch around. Join. (78)
Round 5: Ch 2 hdc in front loop only in each stitch around. Join. (78)
Rounds 6-28: Repeat rounds 4 and 5.
Round 29: Ch 2, hdc in both loops in each around. (78)
(this starts the skirt of the dress)
Round 30: Ch 2 [hdc in next 5 sts, 2 hdc in next st] around. Join. (91)
Round 31:  Ch 2 [hdc in next 6 sts, 2 hdc in next st] around. Join. (104)
Round 32: Ch 2 [hdc in next 7 sts, 2 hdc in next st] around. Join. (117)
Round 33: Ch 2 [hdc in next 8 sts, 2 hdc in next st] around. Join. (130)
Round 34: Ch 2 [hdc in next 9 sts, 2 hdc in next st] around. Join. (143)
Round 35: Ch 2 [hdc in next 10 sts, 2 hdc in next st] around. Join. (156)
Round 36: Ch 2 [hdc in next 11 sts, 2 hdc in next st] around. Join. (169)
Round 37: Ch 2 [hdc in next 12 sts, 2 hdc in next st] around. Join. (182)
Round 38: Ch 2 [hdc in next 13 sts, 2 hdc in next st] around. Join. (195)
Round 39: Ch 2 [hdc in next 14 sts, 2 hdc in next st] around. Join. (208)
Round 40: Ch 2 [hdc in next 15 sts, 2 hdc in next st] around. Join. (221)
Round 41: Ch 2 [hdc in next 16 sts, 2 hdc in next st] around. Join. (234)
Round 42: Ch 2 [hdc in next 17 sts, 2 hdc in next st] around. Join. (247)
Round 43: Ch 2 [hdc in next 18 sts, 2 hdc in next st] around. Join. (260)
Round 44: Ch 2 [hdc in next 19 sts, 2 hdc in next st] around. Join. (273)
Round 45: Ch 2 [hdc in next 20 sts, 2 hdc in next st] around. Join. (286)
Round 46: Ch 2 [hdc in next 21 sts, 2 hdc in next st] around. Join. (299)
Round 47: Ch 2 [hdc in next 22 sts, 2 hdc in next st] around. Join. (302)
Round 48: Ch 2 [hdc in next 23 sts, 2 hdc in next st] around. Join. (315)
Round 40: Ch 2 [hdc in next 24 sts, 2 hdc in next st] around. Join. (328)
Round 50: Ch 2 [hdc in next 25 sts, 2 hdc in next st] around. Join. (314)
Finish off and weave in ends.

Straps:
Starting from the back "seam" and working toward the right, count 31 sts. Attach yarn. Working the back side of the foundation chain:
Row 1: hdc in same stitch as join, and in the next 2 sts. Turn. (3)
Row 2-22: ch 2, hdc 3. Turn. (3)
Attach to the back, criss-crossing, to the 10th stitch from the left of the "seam". Slip stitch 3.

Repeat with other strap, counting 29 sts to the left of the "seam" to join. Then attach the finished strap to the 13th stitch from the right of the"seam".

Using yarn and a yarn needle, stitch over where the straps meet the body, to reinforce.

Weave in all ends.

If desired, you can add a bow or flower to the dress.




Happy Crocheting!
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Tuesday, February 24, 2015

Child's Simple Slippers {Free Crochet Pattern}

I enjoy making slippers for my family. With 7 kids, sometimes simpler is better!
Today, I will share my pattern for the simple slippers that I made for our 7 year old. Unfortunately, one size does not fit all. That is ok, though. On Thursday, I will be sharing a tutorial that will show you how to easily customize the size of these simple slippers, to fit virtually any foot size.

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While these slippers are pretty darn cute as they are, you can easily customize them by adding cute little flowers or appliques. Of course, you can use whichever color combination you please. Have fun with them! Be creative!

I would love to see what you come up with. As always, feel free to share pics of anything you make from any of my patterns on my Facebook Page.
Swing by on weekends too, and share your work in progress of anything you are working on. I look forward to seeing you there! 

Are you ready to get started?

If you go over and take a peek at Thursday's post: All Size Simple Slippers, you will see where I get the calculated measurements for my daughter's foot. 
Her foot is 7 1/2 inches long.
The calculated toe length is 3 the inches, the calculated toe width is 7 inches, and the calculated foot length is 4 1/2 inches.
11 chains measures out to 3 inches, so I add 2 chains to that.

Child's Simple Slippers

Supplies:
Size H crochet hook
Worsted weight yarn
Tape measure
Yarn needle



Pattern:
Make 2
Working the toe:
Ch 13
Row 1: hdc in 3rd ch from hook, and in the next 5 ch, sc in the remaining 5 ch. Turn. (11 sts)
Row 2: ch 1, sc in back loop (bl) of the first 5 sc sts, hdc in the bl of the remaining 6 hdc sts. Turn. (11 sts)
Row 3: ch 2, hdc in the bl of the first 6 hdc sts, sc in the bl of the remaining 5 sc sts. Turn. (11 sts)
Rows 4-18: repeat rows 2 & 3. You should end with a hdc stitch, so do not finish off.

Working the foot:
Row 1: ch 2, working along the side of the hdc edge, hdc 27 evenly across. Turn. (27)
Row 2: ch 2, hdc in bl of each st across. Turn. (27)
Rows 3-12: repeat row 2.
Finish off, leaving a long end for sewing.
Thread your yarn needle with the tail end. Fold your slipper in half, matching up the stitches. Sew up the heel of the slipper. FO and weave in ends.
Thread another length of yarn, insert the needle through corner of the end of the toe. Leave a few inches of yarn, and being careful not to pull it all the way through, weave the yarn through the toe end. Holding the tail side of the yarn, and the needle side, pull tight to cinch the toe closed. Knot tightly, but do not finish off.
Now, line up the rows of the top of the foot, and sew the top of the foot portion. Finish off and weave in ends.
Trim:
Attach a complimenting yarn to the top of the heel of the slipper. sc evenly around the opening. FO and weave in ends.





Happy Crocheting!

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Monday, February 23, 2015

Fingerless Gloves For Kids {Free Crochet Pattern}

Last week, I shared a pattern for Kid's Fingerless Gloves. They are cute, comfy, warm, and allow the finger freedom that mittens and traditional gloves do not. I mentioned a little something about increasing the rounds to make the fingerless gloves a little longer on the wrists. Today's pattern sports a longer wrist that allow these fingerless gloves to easily be tucked up under jacket sleeves, for added warmth, while still keeping little fingers free to make play easier.

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Kid's fingerless gloves are super stylish, and can be customized by using whatever color you like. You can embellish them to suit your kid's desires by adding flowers or appliques.

The fingerless gloves are not too difficult to work up. Each glove is made all in one piece. You will start with the cuff, then move on to the wrist, form the hand and thumb, then finish just before the fingers.

Fingerless Gloves for Kids

Supplies:
Sizes F & G crochet hooks
worsted weight yarn of your choice


Notes:
BLO= back loop only

Pattern:
(Make 2)

Cuff:
Chain 10.
Row 1: Hdc in 3rd ch from hook, and in each across. Turn. (8)
Row 2-17: Ch 2, hdc in BLO of each stitch across. Turn. (8)
Join- Fold in half and join to the first st of the back side of the foundation ch. Sl st the BLO of the first hdc to the same ch as join. [sl st the BLO of the next st to the next ch] repeat across.
Cuff is formed.

Palm:
You will now be working in rounds.
Round 1:  Working along the side edge, ch 1, sc 27 evenly around.Join with sl st to first sc.
Rounds 2-7: Ch 2, hdc in same st as join, and in each st around. Join to first hdc with sl st. (27)
Switch to size G hook.
Round 8: Ch 2, hdc 13, 2 hdc in next, hdc 13. Join as before. (28)
Round 9: Ch 2, hdc 12, 2 hdc in next, hdc 2, 2 hdc in next, hdc 12. Join as before. (30)
Round 10: Ch 2, hdc 12, 2 hdc in next, hdc 4, 2 hdc in next, hdc 12. Join as before. (32)
Round 11: Ch 2, hdc 12, 2 hdc in next, hdc 6, 2 hdc in next, hdc 12. Join as before. (34)
Round 12: Ch 2, hdc 12, 2 hdc in next, hdc 8, 2 hdc in next, hdc 12 Join as before. (36)
Round 13: Ch 2, hdc 12, skip the next 12 sts, hdc 12. Join as before. (24)
Rounds 14-16: Ch 2, hdc in each around. Join as before.(24)
Finish off and weave in ends.




Happy Crocheting!

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Friday, February 20, 2015

Bow Headband {Free Crochet Pattern}


Do you crochet for little girls? If not, you might want to find a little girl to crochet this adorable bow headband for! I mean, come on... what little girl wouldn't want it?
It is fun and cute and the perfect accessory for any outfit. You can make one in every color!

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The headband is simple to make, just keep in mind, it has a lot of "give" to it, so you may want to experiment with going down one size. Check out my hat and headband size chart as a guide.
Use the headband to make this bow headband, or use it to attach the applique of your choice.
The same holds true for the bow. It makes a cute addition to a crochet dress or purse.
Be creative, be colorful, and have fun with it!

Crochet Bow Headband

Supplies:
Size F crochet hook
Size H crochet hook
Yarn Needle
Yarn (I used Lion Brand Pound of Love)


Pattern:
For the Headband:
With size F hook, ch 5.
Row 1: 2 dc in the 3rd ch from hook, ch 1, skip 1 ch, 3 dc in the last ch. Turn.
Row 2: Ch 4 (counts as dc+ch 1), 3 dc in ch 1 space, ch1, dc in the top of the ch 3 from the previous row. Turn.
Row 3: Ch 3, 2 dc in the first ch 1 space, ch 1, 3 dc in the last ch 1 space. Turn.
Remaining Rows: Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you get the desired length. You can use this hat and headband size chart to determine your headband size.
Finish off.
Sew short ends together to form a loop. Weave in all ends.


For the Bow: 
With size H hook, ch 35.
Row 1: Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each across. Turn.
Rows 2-5: Ch 2, hdc in each across. Turn.
Finish off. Fold bow in half and sew the short ends together.
Center:
Ch 12.
Row 1: Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each across. Turn.
Rows 2-3: Ch 2, hdc in each across. Turn.
Finish off. Fold in half over the center of the bow and sew the short ends together.
Attach the bow to the headband. Weave in all ends.





Happy Crocheting!

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Thursday, February 19, 2015

Crochet Hook Styles

We all know that finding a nice comfortable grip is important when we crochet, but how much have you thought about the style of the hook you use? Whether you grip your hook over-handed (as if you are cutting with a knife) or under-handed (as if you are writing with a pencil), finding just the right hook style can optimize your crocheting comfort. The right hook style can lessen or prevent hand fatigue when crocheting. If you have arthritis or carpel tunnel syndrome, a good hook style can allow you to crochet longer and more comfortably.

Today, I am going to highlight four different types of crochet hooks, as well as a set of comfort grips. Each one has a slightly different feel. I encourage you to try out different styles, if possible, to find the one that benefits you most. Do you have friends who crochet? Perhaps you can exchange hooks, so that you can try them out before buying. Alternatively, when buying a new style of hook, make sure you are comfortable with the store's return policy. If it doesn't work for you, you may be able to return it.

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1. Susan Bates Silvalume Crochet Hook Set in Pouch Sizes F, G, H, I, J, K- These are simple, standard crochet hooks. They are made out of lightweight aluminum. Their in line head helps reduce wrist motion for fatigue free crocheting, while maintaining a consistent gauge.

2. Comfort Grip Crochet Hook 10/Pkg - Assorted Colors (one color per package)- These comfort grips fit on your standard crochet hooks. The grips reduce hand stress and prevent slipping.

3. Susan Bates Red Heart Crystallites Acrylic Crochet Hook Set, Size G/H/I/J/K- These simple crochet hooks are made of plastic, so they are perfect if you will be crocheting on a plane trip. They are lightweight and some crocheters experience less slipping with them. Like the aluminum ones, previously mentioned, the in line head helps to reduce wrist motion to cut down on fatigue. I understand that the smaller sized plastic hooks (G and smaller) tend to have some give to them, making it difficult to keep tight stitches. I would recommend these hooks for the larger sizes.

4. BLUBOON(TM) 20 Sizes Carbonized Bamboo Crochet Hooks-These hooks are made of aged bamboo. They are "green" hooks, which are produced without the use of chemicals. Their natural grip, and a slightly tapered head makes for ease of flow in your work.

5. Crochet Hooks & Needle Case Organizer | Premium Quality 11 pcs Ergonomic Hooks Soft Grip Crochet Kit - These are high quality soft grip ergonomic crochet hooks. The smooth, light feel makes them extremely comfortable for someone who likes to crochet for hours. The ergonomic grip helps lessen the pain for arthritis sufferers who enjoy crocheting for long periods of time. These hooks are highly rated, and have a satisfaction guarantee. The kit even comes with a super cute hook case!

Happy Crocheting!
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Wednesday, February 18, 2015

Child's Slouchy Hat With Brim {Free Crochet Pattern}

These little slouchy hats are fun and cute. I think the brim makes them special.
They look great in a variety of colors and color combinations. The slouchy hats are extra fun when they sport a complimenting color for the brim.
You can further customize your slouchy hat by adding a cute crochet flower or applique.

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This hat is perfect for an intermediate crocheter. If you are a beginner, I think you could pull it off without any problems, if you have done a couple of hats already, and you are familiar with the stitches in the special instructions, below. Hey, give it a shot! That's how we advance, right?

Child's Slouchy Hat With Brim

Supplies:
Worsted Weight Yarn
Size K hook
stitch marker


Tips & Special Instructions:
How to hdc 2 tog: yo, insert hook into st, yo and pull through, yo, insert hook into next st, yo and pull through, yo and pull through all 5 loops on hook.
Mark sts: mark the first stitch of each round. It makes things much easier... trust me!
BLO: back loop only
FLO: front loop only
* Replace the first hdc in each round with ch2.
*When you join at the end of the round, you will sl st into the second ch of the ch 2 in the previous round.

For The Hat:
ch 4. Form a ring with a sl st to the first ch.
Round 1: 8 hdc in the ring. Join. (8)
Round 2: 2 hdc in each st around. Join. (16)
Working BLO from now on:
Round 3: [1 hdc in first st, 2 hdc in next st Repeat around. Join. (24)
Round 4: [1 hdc in first 2 sts, 2 hdc in next st] Repeat around. Join. (32)
Round 5: [1 hdc in first 3 sts, 2 hdc in next st] Repeat around. Join. (40)
Round 6: [1 hdc in first 4 sts, 2 hdc in next st] Repeat around. Join. (48)
Round 7: [1 hdc in first 5 sts, 2 hdc in next st] Repeat around. Join. (56)
Round 8: [1 hdc in first 6  sts, 2 hdc in next st] Repeat around. Join. (64)
Round 9: [1 hdc in first 7  sts, 2 hdc in next st] Repeat around. Join. (72)

Round 10: [1 hdc in first 8  sts, 2 hdc in next st] Repeat around. Join. (80)
Round 11-14: hdc in each st around. Join. (80)
Round 15: [hdc in first 8 sts, hdc 2 tog] Repeat around. Join. (72)
Round 16: [hdc in first 7 sts, hdc 2 tog] Repeat around. Join. (64)
Round 17: [hdc in first 6 sts, hdc 2 tog] Repeat around. Join. (56)
Round 18: [hdc in first 5 sts, hdc 2 tog] Repeat around. Join. (48)
Now, work through BOTH loops.
Round 19-20: hdc in each st around. Join. (48)
Finish off.

For The Brim and Trim:
Work with two strands of yarn together.
Count 14 sts from the finished end of the hat, and join yarn in the 14th st.
Round 1: ch 2, working FLO, hdc in next 21 sts. Turn.
Now work through BOTH loops.
Round 2: ch 2, hdc 2 tog, hdc in next 17 sts, hdc 2 tog. Turn.
Round 3: ch 2, hdc 2 tog, hdc in next 15 sts, hdc 2 tog. Turn.
Round 4: ch 2, hdc 2 tog, hdc in next 13 sts, hdc 2 tog. Turn.
Round 5: ch 2, hdc 2 tog, hdc in next 11 sts, hdc 2 tog. Do not turn.
Trim: Work LOOSELY so that there is a little "give" to the hat.
Now sl st around the entire hat and brim. Finish off and weave in ends.




Happy Crocheting!

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Tuesday, February 17, 2015

The Husband Scarf {Free Crochet Pattern}

This scarf is aptly named The Husband Scarf because... well, I made it for my husband.
In all honesty, this scarf is suitable for anyone. My goal; however, was to find a stitch was masculine enough for a man to wear. This series of half double crochets and chain stitches fit the bill.  

Crochet, Free Crochet Pattern, Crochet Scarf, The Husband Scarf,

One of the things that I really like about scarves is that they are so easy to customize to you or the recipient's liking. This scarf can be made wider, if you wish, just work in multiples of 2+1. You can also adjust the length to one that you are comfortable with. You can use a variety of colors, yarn types, or even hook sizes to obtain just the look you want. Add a fringe, or keep it off. There are just so many possibilities with scarves!

The Husband Scarf

Supplies:
Size I crochet hook
Worsted Weight Yarn (I used Lion Brand Heartland in Redwood)



Pattern:
Ch 23
Row 1: Hdc in fifth ch from hook. *ch 1, skip 1ch, hdc in the next ch*, repeat from *to* across. Turn.
Row 2: Ch 3, hdc in first ch 1 space, *ch 1, hdc in next ch 1 space*, repeat from *to* across. Turn.
Remaining Rows: Repeat row 2 until you reach the desired length.
Finish off and weave in ends.

Fringe:
Cut equal sized pieces of yarn, approximately 10 inches long. Working with two strands at a time, fold the strands in half and pull the loop through an end stitch of the scarf, then pull the ends of the fringe tightly through the loop. Repeat as desired. Trim fringe so that it is even.





Happy Crocheting!

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Monday, February 16, 2015

Kid's Fingerless Gloves {Free Crochet Pattern}

Who doesn't want warm hands when it's cold outside?
The problem is, bulky gloves make it difficult to swing on bars, climb ladders and rock walls and play ball at the park or in the playground.
These fingerless gloves are great for keeping your kids' hands warm while they play!

Do your kids use the tablet while in the car? These are great for that, as well. I mean, come on... you and I both know that it is pretty frustrating trying to use a tablet or a smart phone while wearing traditional gloves.

Crochet, Free Crochet Pattern, Kid's Fingerless Gloves Crochet Pattern,

These gloves don't take too much yarn and they are pretty quick to work up. If you prefer longer gloves, you can easily increase the rounds.
You can dress them up by adding a cute flower or applique, too.

Kids Fingerless Gloves
Supplies:
Crochet hooks size F and G
Medium weight yarn of your choice (I used Lion Brand Pound of Love in Lilac)

Pattern:
(Make 2)
Using size F hook, Ch 27, join with sl st to first ch to make a loop.
Round 1: Ch 1, dc in joining ch and in each around. Join to first dc with sl st. (27)
Round 2: Ch 2, [dc front post, dc back post] around. Join with sl st to the first dc. (27)
Rounds 3-6: Repeat round 2.
Switch to G hook.
Round 7: Ch 1, sc in second ch from hook and in each around. Join with sl st. (26)
Round 8: Ch 1, sc in same st as join, and in each around.  Join with sl st. (26)
Round 9: Ch 1, sc in same st as join and in the next 11 sts, 2 sc in each of the next 2 sts, sc 12, Join with sl st. (28)
Round 10: Ch 1, sc in same st as join and in the next 11 sts, 2 sc in the next st, sc 2, 2 sc in the next st, sc 12, Join with sl st. (30)
Round 11: Ch 1, sc in same st as join and in the next 11 sts, 2 sc in the next st, sc 4, 2 sc in the next st, sc 12, Join with sl st. (32)
Round 12: Ch 1, sc in same st as join and in the next 11 sts, 2 sc in the next st, sc 6, 2 sc in the next st, sc 12, Join with sl st. (34)
Round 13: Ch 1, sc in same st as join and in the next 11 sts, 2 sc in the next st, sc 8, 2 sc in the next st, sc 12, Join with sl st. (36)
Round 14: (to divide thumb) Ch 1, sc 12, skip the next 12 sts, sc 12, Join with sl st. (24)
Round 15: Ch 1, sc in same st as join, and in each around.  Join with sl st. (24)
Round 16-20: Repeat row 15. Finish off and weave in ends.



Happy Crocheting!

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Friday, February 13, 2015

Sunflower Sun Hat {Free Crochet Pattern}

This sunflower sun hat is one of my most favorite little hats ever! It was a challenge for me to come up with and write the pattern, but I think it was well worth it. Despite my difficult beginnings, this hat is fairly easy to work up. The petal brim is fun to make.

Crochet, Free Crochet Pattern, Crochet Hat Pattern, Sunflower Hat, Crochet Sunflower Hat,

This hat is a child's size. You will notice that in my photos below, my (then) toddler is wearing the hat. I tend to crochet a bit tightly, so it was perfect for her. If you would like to make this in a smaller size, I would suggest going down a hook size, or two. Keep in mind that this pattern calls for cotton yarn. Cotton yarn has less stretch than acrylic. If you choose to make this hat with acrylic, again, adjust your hook size.

Sunflower Sun Hat

Supplies:
Size H Crochet Hook
1 skein each 100% Cotton Yarn ~ Sunshine and Warm Brown


Special Instructions:
The first ch 3 in each round counts as a dc. When joining at the end of the round, you will slip stitch into the top of the beginning ch 3.

Pattern:
Hat:
Using the brown, Ch 3, join with sl st to the first ch to form a ring.
Round 1: Ch 3, work 9 dc inside ring. Join. (10)
Round 2:  [2 dc in each st] around. Join. (20)
Round 3: [1 dc, 2dc in next st] around. Join. (30)
Round 4: [2dc, 2dc in next st] around. Join. (40)
Round 5: [3 dc, 2dc in next st] around. Join. (50)
Round 6: [4 dc, 2dc in next st] around. Join. (60)
Rounds 7-12: dc in each st around. (60)
Switch to the yellow yarn.
Round 13 & 14: dc in each st around. (60)
Round 15: hdc in each st around. (60)
Finish off.

Brim:
Petal Base:
Reattach the yellow to the vertical strand of the first dc (this is the ch3) in round 14.
Ch 1, sc in the front vertical strand of each stitch in that row, around. Join. (60)
Petals: (Ch 2 at the beginning of the row does NOT count as a hdc.)
Now working with two strands of yarn together, 
ch 2:
Row 1: Hdc (in the same stitch as join and ch 2 for the first petal), hdc in the next 5 sts. Turn. (6)
Row 2&3: Ch 2, hdc in each hdc across. Turn. (6)
Row 4: Ch 2, hdc2tog, 2 hdc, hdc2tog. Turn. (4)
Row 5: Ch 2, [hdc2tog] twice. Turn. (2)
Row 6: Ch 2, hdc2tog. Turn. (1)
Row 7: Ch 1, pivot work and sl st 8 down the left side of the petal. Hdc in the next sc of the base row (this will count as the first hdc in row 1 for the next petal. For the last petal, simply sl st into the base to join.)
Repeat 1-7 around.  You should get 10 petals.
Now sl st around entire petal brim.
Finish off and weave in all ends.


Happy Crocheting!

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Thursday, February 12, 2015

Hat and Headband Size Chart {Free Printable}

Do you like making hats and headbands? I know I do!
I also know how frustrating it can be to wind up making the wrong sized hat.
Not fun.
If you are "winging it" or trying to re-size a pattern to the size you want, it will be helpful to know what the measurement of your finished product should be.
You start by knowing the approximate head size of your intended recipient. Can't measure your neighbor's cousin's granddaughter's head because she lives across the country? No worries, as long as you know about how old she is. This hat and headband size chart shows the approximate measurements for different ages, as well.

Keep in mind that yarn is stretchy. Typically, a hat or headband is made slightly smaller than the circumference (measurement around) of one's head.
Crochet Headband Size Chart, Hat Size Chart, Headband Size Chart, Hat and Headband Size Chart, Crochet Resources, Free Printable

Hat and Headband Size Chart



Size
Head Circumference
Hat or Headband Circumference

Hat Height
Premie
(2-3 lbs)
10-11¼ inches/
25-28 centimeters
8½-10 inches/
22-25 centimeters
4 inches/
10 centimeters
Premie
(4-5 lbs)
11½-12½ inches/
28-33 centimeters
9-11½ inches/
23-28 centimeters
4-4½ inches/
10-11 centimeters
Premie
(5 ½-6 lbs)
12½-13 inches/
31-33 centimeters
11-12 inches/
28-33 centimeters
5-5½ inches/
13-15 centimeters
Newborn
13 inches/
33 centimeters
11½-12½  inches/
29-32 centimeters
5½-6 inches/
14-15 centimeters
Baby
(0-3 months)
14-15 inches/
36-38 centimeters
13-13½ inches/
33-34 centimeters
6-6½ inches/
15-16½
centimeters
Baby
(3-6 months)
15-17 inches/
38-43 centimeters
13½-15½ inches/
34-39 centimeters
6½-7 inches/
15-18 centimeters
Baby
(6-12 months)
16-18 inches/
41-46 centimeters
14½-16½ inches/
37-42 centimeters
7½-8 inches/
19-20 centimeters
Toddler
(1-3 years)
18-20 inches/
46-51 centimeters
16½-18½  inches/
42-47 centimeters
8 inches/
20 centimeters
Child
19-20½ inches/
48-51 centimeters
17½-19 inches/
44-48 centimeters
8½ inches/
22 centimeters
Teen
20½-22 inches/
53-56 centimeters
19-20½ inches/
48-52 centimeters
9-10 inches/
23-25 centimeters
Adult Woman
21½-22½ inches/
54-57 centimeters
20-21½ inches/
51-55 centimeters
11 inches/
28 centimeters
Adult Man
23-24 inches/
58-61 centimeters
21½-23 inches/
55-58 centimeters
11-11½ inches/
28-29 centimeters

Happy Crocheting!
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